I walk along the beach in an intended slow pace to build up suspense about this meet but, as the sand was a few degrees cooler than an active volcano's crater and I could feel the soles of my feet burning to the bone, I skipped and ran over it like the wimp I am, losing any cool I may have had (even more cool lost, as children were walking across this sandy fire pit with ease). I make the oceans edge and step slowly into the froth of a newly beached wave. I see steam rising from my feet, as they make first contact.
|"I've got an itching burning sensation on my foot" - "No wonder man, your foot's on fire" (via warnerpacific.wordpress.com)|
I continue into the water and it creeps up my leg. I'm noticing this unusual sensation setting in, as the water covers the skin for a short amount of time, this weird feeling quickly disappears so I ignore it. I wander further towards Hawaii and it is not until a wave pops up from the big blue and shoots up past my leg to my belly button that I feel this whimsical feeling again but in a violent magnitude, especially in and around my groin.
ARGH! Damn you sun, with you weak heat not penetrating down beneath the surface of this cold-shrink-inducing water!
It was at that point, I would've loved to have ran out the sea screaming like a kindergarten child seeing a tarantula for the first time... by it landing on the kids face. With people observing me, I have no option but to go in further.
In the far off distance, a tubular wave is majestically created from nothing and over revolves itself to tumble and crash at its feet, melting into a bumpy sheet bouncy white foam "Now would you just look at that!" I think "Wow, that's amazing!"
I was mesmerized by this spectacle, the calm looking gentle froth was bounding playfully towards me, but before I knew what's what, this friendly thing turned into tiny white buffalo stampeding towards me. I couldn't react quick enough as it was going too fast and was way to huge to get out the way (not sure how is even do that) - all I could do now is close my eyes and wince.
|It felt this big, was in fact, just a ripple (via myguidestar.blogspot.com)|
The wave washed over me and a feeling identical to being in the darkest and coldest depths of outer space, a sub-zero hyperthermia inhabits my body completely numbing itself from existence.
From then on, as I had nothing left to fear and no more body parts capable of feeling. I had a bloody wonderful time, being fascinated by these perfect waves and being smashed about by the forces of nature. Simply swell, dude!